It was the evening of May 14th when I received an unexpected call from my old college friends. As we caught up, an idea of a reunion after two long years came to mind. The question then arose: where and when should we meet? Given that we had all previously visited KashiVishwanath Baba, I suggested Rameshwaram to complete the spiritual journey. It felt as though some divine force guided my suggestion, and to my delight everyone agreed. Eager to embark on this pilgrimage, I was the first to book my train tickets to Rameshwaram. Little did I know, I would end up being the only one to complete this journey!.
While booking the train tickets, I discovered that there was no direct railway service to Rameshwaram from Bengaluru. So, I booked my ticket to Madurai instead, planning to cover the remaining distance by road. The trip from Madurai to Rameshwaram would take about 3-4 hours.
Despite facing several hurdles, including catching a fever and missing the send-off ceremony of my college, I felt an unwavering divine force pushing me to board that train on June 12th. And I did! When I arrived in Madurai on June 13th, I found myself surrounded by a crowd of auto drivers. Though initially anxious about the language barrier, my worries eased as soon as the first driver greeted me in Hindi, saying, “Bhai Saab, aapko kahan le jana hai?” My heart lifted at his words. I soon found a travel agency that promised to cover the important sites within a short span. That very day, I had the darshan of Meenakshi Amman, a visit made all the more auspicious as it was a Friday. The story of Madurai and Meenakshi Amman is one steeped in history and spirituality.
Itihasa of Madurai and Meenakshi Amman
Kulasekarapandya ruled from Manavur, situated east of the Katampa forest. In that city flourished a merchant called Dananjaya, who was a devotee of Lord Shiva. After trading in many places to the west, he was returning home through the Katampa forest when night fell . Unable to proceed further, he was distressed at his plight. Just then, he spotted a Vimana, dazzling like the sun. He worshipped the Lord there in the temple and decided to stay in the forest for the night. It was a Monday night. The Devas had gathered there and performed a special puja to Shiva during the four watches of the night. As daybreak approached, they disappeared. Dananjaya, after adoring the Lord, took leave of Him and returned to town. He proceeded straight to the Pandya king and narrated to him the extraordinary event he witnessed in the forest. The king was struck with wonder, filled with a deep sense of divine grace, and grew joyful.
The day melted into night. Lord Shiva, in the guise of a Siddha, appeared in the monarch’s dream and spoke: “Deforest Katampavanam and create a beautiful city.” After this mystic event, the king sleeplessly awaited the advent of day-break. He shared the divine vision with his ministers and many celebrated tapaswis. Together they journeyed into the jungle. After bathing in the Pool of Golden Lotuses, the king was blessed with a darshan of Lord Somasundara, who was enshrined beneath the golden Vimana. He then ordered the workers from all quarters to assemble and deforestation began. The ground leveled, however, he knew not how he should go about the task.
At that moment, Lord Shiva reappeared in the guise of a Siddha. The Pandya king received him with all humility and offered him a seat. The Siddha then explained the Saiva Agamic principles of temple and town planning before disappearing. Following the Siddha’s instructions, the king built the city. Sanctifying the newly built city, Lord Somasundara sprinkled the nectar taken from the moon adorning His crest. It made the entire city pure and nectarean. He named it Madurai – the city sweet, par excellence. The Pandya king installed in the east the idol of Ayyanar, in the south the seven goddesses, in the west Vishnu and in the north Bhadrakali as guardian deities. To conduct pujas in accordance with the Saiva Agamas, he brought sages and brahmins from Kasi. Kulasekara Pandya reigned over his country, the capital of which was Madurai, truly the splendorous tilaka of the Pandya realm. It flourished with pomp and glory. Eventually, he entrusted his empire to his son, Malaya Dvaja, and spent the rest of his days hailing Shiva, ultimately attaining oneness with Him.
Malaya Dvaja reigned over his realm conforming to Manu-Niti. He married Kanjanamala, the daughter of CholaSurasena of the solar dynasty. However, for many years, the couple remained childless, which caused him great sorrow. In his distress, Malaya Dvaja commenced the performance of Aswamedha Sacrifice. In all, he completed as many as ninety nine sacrifices. Indra was alarmed, for, should the Pandya complete the hundredth sacrifice, he would forfeit his reign over the Swarga-loka. He visited the Pandya and said: “You long for a child. So, perform the Putrakameshti sacrifice instead of Aswamedhayajna.” Following Indra’s advice, the Pandya performed the ritual and from the sacrificial fire-pit emerged a three-year old girl -with three breasts. The child proceeded towards Kanjanamala and sat on her lap.
The Pandya was worried for two reasons. First, he did not beget a male child and secondly the girl child was endowed with three breasts. Just then, an unbodied, heavenly voice announced: “O king, do not worry! Perform all rites pertaining to a male child for your daughter. Name her Thatathakai. When the time is right, coronate her. With the advent of the destined bridegroom, the third breast will vanish.” The king was reassured by this divine message, and celebrated the birth of his daughter with royal splendour. Thatathakai grew up in joy, mastering the four Vedas, the sixty four sciences and arts; and acquired extraordinary valiancy in weaponry. With the passage of time, she became a beautiful young woman. The Pandya in consultation with his minister Sumati, coronated her. After some time the king passed away and Thatathakai performed the final rites for her father.
Thatathakai ruled her realm with great skill, eventually bringing the entire world under her dominion. During her reign all arts flourished, and pujas and temple festivals were conducted as ordained. Both the citizens of Heaven and Earth became her subjects. As she ascended the throne and ruled, while still a virgin, her country came to be known as Kanni Nadu (The Country of the Virgin).
When Agastya narrated her history to the sages, they humbly asked: “What may be the reason for Uma who is one with Shiva, to go away from him and get incarnated on earth?” Agastya explained: “Viswavati, the daughter of Viswavasu, was devoted to Uma. She learnt from her father that Madurai was the most holy place for hailing and adoring Uma. She came to Madurai and settled there. Throughout the year, she performed various vratas. Great indeed was her tapas. During the month of Thai, she would visit the shrine of Angayarkkanni (Meenakshi) and spend her time in worship and adoration of the Goddess. She would hail her in her hymn and sing while playing on the yaazh (a musical instrument of South India). Pleased with her devotion, the goddess manifested before her and asked: “What is it that you seek?”
Viswavati replied: “O Mother, I long for the interminable devotion to your lotus-feet.” “Is there anything else that you long for ?” asked the Goddess. She responded: “In this form of Yours, I should be blessed to become your mother.” Meenakshi graced her thus: “In your incarnation as the Queen of Malaya Dvajapandya, your wish will be fulfilled.” “So it is that Uma was born as Thatathakai, the daughter of Malaya Dvaja,.” concluded Agastya.
Uma, as Thatathakai, ruled over her realm in conformity with Manu-Niti. She had grown into a beautiful young woman yet her unmarried status caused her mother great distress. The princess consoled her mother thus: “O mother, do not worry. I am proceeding on an expedition of war. I will conquer all the kings of the eight quarters after which your wish will be fulfilled.” The Princess mounted her chariot and set out on her campaign. Kings and ministers followed her. She vanquished Gajapati, Turakapati and Narapati, the rulers of the North and finally reached Indra-loka. Aware of her prowess and influence, Indra took to his heels. She then proceeded to Kailash. When Nandi was informed of her advent, he dispatched his forces who were totally routed in a pitched battle.
Nandi informed Shiva of the dire situation. Shiva smiled. Then equipped with His bow Pinaka and other weapons, He rode on the Bull to the battlefield. He cast His loving gaze on Thatathakai who stood majestic as a lioness. She too looked upon Shiva, and in that magical moment, one of her breasts vanished. Forthwith such womanly virtues as dread, mildness and bashfulness took possession of her. She, in modesty, stood there, bending her head slightly. Sumati, her wise minister, understanding the significance of past heavenly proclamation, came near her and said: “O Mother, the handsome lad, who is Shiva, is your consort.” Thatathakai was thrilled to the very core of her heart.
The ever-merciful Shiva spake to her thus: “The day you left Madurai on your military expedition, We too departed and chose to follow you. Come Monday, at the auspicious hour, We will wed. Now, return to Madurai.” Leaving her love and life with Shiva, she returned to Madurai with her retinue. Wedding invitations were dispatched to all the countries. The drummer seated on the tusker went round the city and announced the message of the wedding. The city wore a festive appearance. The wedding-hall was decorated with gold and ninefold gems. Seats allotted to the servitors of Shiva and the Devas were bedecked fittingly. A throne of gold was installed in the wedding-mantapam. Many monarchs, Devas, Vishnu and Rudras gathered there. At Kailash, Shiva was preparing for the wedding, adorning Himself in a wedding dress with Kubera attending to His attire. As He emerged, Gundotara held aloft a white, moon-like umbrella over His crown. Upon reaching the outskirts of Madurai, Vishnu, Brahma and other Devas had already assembled in Madurai. The minister, Sumati and his colleagues received Shiva and led him in a grand procession around the city. Women from various countries were delighted at the darshan of Shiva. Even as the Brahmins pronounced on Him Vedic chanting, Shiva entered the palace.
Kanjanamala received Him and implored Him to wed her daughter and assume the rule of the realm. Shiva graciously assented to her request. To the orchestration of musical instruments and the chanting of the Vedas, He proceeded towards the throne and seated himself.
The radiant bride accompanied by her attendants, arrived and sat beside Shiva. The palm of the bride was placed in Shiva’s hands. Vedas were chanted and Devas showered flowers on the couple. Munis hailed them, uttering ‘Hara, Hara!’ Sages and Devas sprinkled on them pearl-like rice grains soaked in kumkum water. Brahma performed the sacrificial fire with ghee which rose up with tongues of ruddy flame. The Vedas, echoed by themselves, conches blared and drums roared. Brahma performed the wedding rites as ordained by the Vedas. Lord Shiva tied the holy mangalsutra around His blushing bride’s neck and held her hand in His with great love. The Vedas resounded to the sky so that the world would prosper. Virtuous women blessed the couple. Shiva showered gifts galore on Brahma, Vishnu, Devas and others. Assuming the regal form of Pandya, Shiva stood splendorous. SankuKannan and Shiva’s hosts assumed human forms befitting their royal offices, ever on the alert to perform with promptness the wishes of their king.
During His reign, Shiva founded a city, named it Naduvur and built a temple there in conformity with the rules prescribed in the Saivagamas. Therein he installed a Linga and named it thus: “The God that confers welfare in this very life.” He performed puja there and in the shrine of Somasundara during the three divisions of the day. Shiva’s royal authority held sway over the whole world. The greatness of Shiva, the Pandya is indeed too great!
Me and my Amman
After learning the beautiful story behind the origin of Madurai and the Meenakshi Amman Temple, I felt incredibly fortunate. I wished I had been alive when this temple was constructed. The shilpas (sculptures), deities, and even the murtis (idols) of those who attained moksha with Shiva captivated my heart and eyes. Despite the huge crowd, I was mesmerized by the beautiful paintings on the walls.
One particular signboard in the temple caught my attention. It read, “Hereafter, only Hindus are allowed to enter.” I believe such guidance should be considered in temples across Bharat to help preserve the religious essence and spiritual atmosphere of such sacred spaces.
(Figure 1: Overlooking Potramarai Kulam or Golden-Lotus Pond)
After having darshana of Meenakshi Amman, I stepped out and sat near the Kalyani (temple tank). One thing worth mentioning is that the temple committee was very commercial. Even for making an arpana (offering) of poojasamagri (worship materials), one had to pay money. Despite this, I was lost in the grandeur of the temple. The vigrahas (idols) of Veerabhadra and Kalabhairava were so lifelike that I felt they would move any moment. I sat there till afternoon, soaking in the inner silence.
Later, I came out and enjoyed a delicious veg kushka (a local rice dish) and Jigarthanda (a local drink). Both were amazing.
In the afternoon, the travel agency took us to visit local attractions, including ThirumalaiNayakkar Palace, Gandhi Museum, VandiyurMariammanTeppakulam, AlagarKovil, and the MuruganTemple. Later in the evening, I searched for a pure vegetarian restaurant and found Sabari Hotel, where I had my dinner. Afterward, I returned to my room and fell asleep, reminiscing about the beautiful darshana of Meenakshi Amman. The next day, Rameshwaram awaited me.
Journey to Rameshwaram
The next morning, I got up around 5 AM, packed my bags, and went to catch the bus. The bus left Madurai after picking up all the tourists around 9 AM. At 10:30 AM, we stopped at a canteen for breakfast. Later, at 12:30 PM, the bus stopped near a bridge close to the magnificent ocean, adjacent to the Pamban Bridge. Boats were scattered across the ocean, and I stood there for a while, immersed in the vastness of the sea. When the guide called us back to the bus, we continued our journey. As the bus moved on, I noticed a significant difference between the real Rameshwaram and the Rameshwaram depicted in Bollywood movies.
(Figure 2: LakshmanKund, neglected with murky water filled with garbage, reflecting poor maintenance)
Finally, we reached Rameshwaram. The first place the guide showed us was “LakshmanKund.” It was similar to a Kalyani in a temple, but I felt sorry about its maintenance. It wasn’t clean, and a huge amount of garbage was in the water. Nobody seemed to be taking care of it.
Next, we visited a nearby Shiva temple and Hanuman temple. In the Hanuman temple, we saw the floating stones of Ram Setu. From here, we headed to Dhanushkodi, which is only about 18 kilometers from Sri Lanka. There, I saw huge sea waves and immersed myself in the emotions of the place, imagining how Lord Rama might have crossed the ocean and built the Setu. After a few minutes, the driver called us back again, and we finally headed to the temple. However, he stopped the bus 1.5 kilometers away from the temple and informed us that if we didn’t return by 5 PM, he would leave for Madurai without us. It was 3:15 PM, so I suddenly rushed to the temple, running down the street.
Itihasa of Rameshwaram
After rescuing his wife Sita from the demon king Ravana in Lanka (present-day Sri Lanka), Lord Rama, along with Sita and his brother Lakshmana, returned to Bharat. Ravana was a Brahmin, and despite his actions, killing him was considered a sin (Brahmahatya). To atone for this sin, Rama decided to worship Lord Shiva. Rama desired a grand lingam (a symbolic representation of Shiva) for worship and sent Hanuman to Mount Kailash to bring one. However, as the auspicious time for the worship was approaching and Hanuman had yet not returned, Sita constructed a small lingam out of sand. This lingam, known as the Ramalingam, is the principal deity of the Ramanathaswamy Temple.
When Hanuman finally returned with a larger lingam, it was also installed in the temple, and came to be known as Vishwalingam. Rama instructed that prayers should first be offered to Vishwalingam, honoring Hanuman’s devotion and effort. The temple itself is an architectural marvel and one of the twelve Jyotirlinga temples, which are considered to be the most sacred abodes of Shiva. The construction of the current structure is attributed to various rulers over centuries, but it reached its current grandeur reaching its pinnacle under the patronage of the Pandya and Jaffna kings.
Me and My Shiva
Somehow, I quickly reached the temple and went inside. I was eager to experience the grandeur of the JyotirlingaKshetram. Unfortunately, I observed that the deities, such as Murugan (SubramanyaSwamy), were not being worshipped properly. The bhasma (sacred ash) seemed to have been applied a long time ago, and the proper pooja (worship) might not have been performed. Even during my darshana of Ramanathaswamy, I noticed lack of flowers at Swamy’s feet. Nevertheless, Swamy appeared calm and continued to give darshana to his devotees.
Next, I went for the darshana of Parvati Amman. I briefly observed her auspicious face before exiting quickly. I felt sorry about the temple’s maintenance. In many places, the paintings were poorly maintained. Independent Kshetras (those not under government control), such as Dharmasthala in Karnataka, are maintained much better than these temples under government management.
Finally, my request to the Tamil Nadu government and the Trust is to free the temple if it cannot be maintained properly. Despite these observations, my personal journey of discovering Shiva and Shakti was unprecedented and memorable. This journey has left an indelible mark on my life, filled with unforgettable and remarkable experiences. While we often plan pilgrimages on our own, I truly believe that such sacred journeys can only occur when the deity wills it. The divine call to visit these holy places transcends our human intentions and reveals a higher purpose at play.
Before embarking on an exploration of unknown places, we may encounter various opinions from our acquaintances, which can sometimes induce fear and caution. However, this journey has taught me that every corner of Bharat is imbued with a unique spiritual energy. Each holy place, regardless of its location, carries a profound power that guides, protects, and allows us to experience the divine presence in its own way.
The pilgrimage to Rameshwaram and Madurai was not just a visit to sacred sites; it was a deeply transformative experience. The blessings of Shiva and Shakti in these ancient temples brought a sense of peace and fulfillment that words can hardly capture. The stories and histories associated with these places, rich with legends and divine interventions, added layers of meaning to my journey. The serene darshan of Ramalingeshwara Swamy was a purifying ritual that cleansed both my body and soul. The awe-inspiring architecture and spiritual atmosphere of the Meenakshi Amman Temple in Madurai further deepened my connection to the divine. Walking through its grand corridors and witnessing the majestic shrines was a humbling reminder of the timeless devotion that permeates our culture.
This journey underscored the belief that when the divine wills us to visit, all obstacles fade away, and we are enveloped in an unseen protection and guidance. The divine presence in these places is palpable, offering solace, inspiration, and a sense of being a part of something much greater than ourselves. In essence, this pilgrimage has reinforced my faith and left me with a profound sense of gratitude. The spiritual energy of Rameshwaram and Madurai continues to resonate within me, serving as a source of strength and inspiration in my daily life. It has taught me that the divine is always present, ready to guide us on our path, if only we are open to its call. And I believe it was the call of Shiva and Shakti!
Feature Image Credit: wikipedia.org
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