The mention of Ayodhya evokes vivid images of Lord Rama’s birthplace, deeply ingrained in our collective memories. It’s a city steeped in ancient lore; its vibrant tales often reminiscent of the pages of an Amar Chitra Katha. Situated along the banks of the Sarayu River, Ayodhya is depicted in ancient scriptures as a prosperous and well-defended metropolis. As I pondered its depiction, a curiosity arose within me: Would Ayodhya resemble the captivating town of my childhood imagination or present itself as a blend of tradition and modernity? Motivated by the ongoing discourse surrounding the Ramjanmabhoomi and fuelled by a desire to unravel the mysteries of this historic city, my husband and I embarked on a journey from Lucknow, eager to explore Ayodhya firsthand.
The journey to Ayodhya was a picturesque and seamless one, spanning just over two hours. Upon our arrival at the city gates, a young lad swiftly hopped into our cab, proclaiming himself as our tour guide. Though initially taken aback by this unexpected turn of events, we quickly regained composure and silently hoped for divine guidance. Our trust in him grew steadily as we navigated the streets of Ayodhya, recognizing the indispensable value of a knowledgeable local in exploring this historic place. It’s worth noting at this juncture that comfortable footwear is advisable, given the abundance of temples adorning nearly every corner of the city.
The smaller temples nestled within the alleys of this ancient city harbour intriguing tales. Take, for example, the ancient subterranean kitchen known as Sita ki Rasoi, or Goddess Sita’s kitchen, which captured our imagination. The towering vessels housed within suggested their role in communal feasts, sparking our curiosity. We couldn’t help but wonder: what culinary delights might Goddess Sita have prepared here? Could they have been the favoured dishes of Lord Ram himself?
(Figure 1: Inside a Hanuman Temple at Ayodhya where every chant echoes Jai Shri Ram)
A notable landmark in Ayodhya is Hanuman Garhi, a 10th-century temple revered as the dwelling place of Lord Hanuman, who is believed to have protected Sri Ram from this site. Paying homage at Hanuman Garhi is a customary ritual before entering the Ramjanmabhoomi temple. Along our journey, we explored numerous temples and akharas, each leaving us with unforgettable experiences.
During our exploration, we encountered a unique experience at an akhara where a sadhu, observing maunvrat (a vow of silence), pledged to break his silence upon the completion of the new Ram temple. Stacks of registers containing the names of donors for the temple’s construction lay before us. Moved by the endeavour, we inscribed our names in one of these ledgers.
Afterward, our guide led us to the sandy shores of the Sarayu River, possibly one of the sacred ghats known as Ram Ki Paidi. Photographers hurried in, carrying portable photo printers slung around their shoulders, showcasing samples of their work. Such photographers are a rarity nowadays with the prevalence of smartphones, but in Ayodhya in 2018, life took on a different rhythm. While I typically didn’t indulge in taking sentimental ‘couple’ photographs, a sudden inspiration struck me. The presence of these photographers hinted at something intriguing about to happen, and my intuition proved to be correct.
A priest stood before a cowshed, with the back of a cow facing him. He directed both of us to grasp its tail and recite incantations after him. The photographer, whom we had tasked with capturing ‘couple’ photos, began documenting our first gaupooja. From the corner of our eyes, we noticed a crowd gathered around the cowshed, observing the spectacle. Like obedient children, we followed the priest’s guidance. One memorable incident from the gaupooja stands out: My husband unexpectedly touched my feet to seek blessings, mirroring my gesture. This spontaneous act took me and the onlookers by surprise. The photographer skilfully captured this intimate moment, a cherished possession that remains close to my heart.
(Figure 2: Chiseling devotion into stone—one stroke at a time)
After the cow worship ritual, we proceeded to the temple workshop area or karsevapuram, where artisans skilfully chiselled intricate patterns onto long blocks of stone, transforming them into stunning works of art. Our guide shared, “The framework for the new temple is already in place, with ninety percent of the construction completed. We are eagerly awaiting the court verdict, and once we receive the green signal, building the new Ramjanmabhoomi temple will be swift.” It seemed that the residents of Ayodhya were confident of a positive outcome, yet there lingered a sense of anticipation in their hearts. Their sentiments were not unfounded, as Ayodhya had witnessed the sacrifices of numerous Hindu activists who fought to reclaim the land rightfully belonging to them. Hindu blood was shed during the establishment of Babri Masjid, and history repeated itself during the communal riots following its demolition. The hope of a new temple emerging at the site of the demolition once seemed like a distant dream. However, the residents of Ayodhya never lost faith. They reverently reinstalled the deities of Ram Lalla at the site, which was once the original birthplace of Lord Ram. Worship at the site continued under the watchful eyes of the CRPF team.
(Figure 3: Every brick a prayer – inscribed with the name “Sri Ram”
One of the most revered sites in Ayodhya is the wall adorned with bricks inscribed with the name “Sri Ram.” These bricks were contributed by various countries that resonated with the cause of Hindu revival. The wall stands as a symbol of the collective efforts and fervour of Hindus worldwide, united in their desire to see Lord Ram reclaim his rightful abode. It signifies a struggle to safeguard our heritage and, ultimately, Hinduism itself, from the threats it faces.
(Figure 4: From Kishkindha to Ayodhya, the vanaras remain eternal devotees of Shri Ram)
After thoroughly exploring Ayodhya, we reached the disputed site of Ram Mandir, seemingly planned by our tour guide as the climax of our day’s journey. Surrendering all our belongings at the locker stations in exchange for a token, we proceeded towards the first security checkpoint. Here, lines were segregated by gender, and we underwent rigorous examination and cross-examination to reach the eighth checkpoint, akin to a marathon given the lengthy queue. Stepping out of the final checkpoint felt like entering a different realm, as if transported back to the pre-independence era, with three grand houses across the street reinforcing the illusion. It was the monkeys that snapped me out of my reverie. Their monkey business scared me and those standing beside. Fortunately, my husband soon joined me, and together we made our way towards the temple site. The entire perimeter was enclosed by iron mesh gates and barbed wires. Walking in single file through a narrow corridor, we approached the makeshift temple of Ram Lalla. The deity, positioned on a raised circular platform under a protective tent, left us in awe despite the fleeting glimpse we managed to steal amidst the fast-moving queue. Standing at the world’s most renowned historic and religious site was a surreal experience, yet its condition clearly warranted renovation.
(Figure 5: An Ayodhya Chaupal where silence speaks and Ramayana echoes)
Visiting the makeshift temple deeply resonated with us, highlighting why countless individuals sacrificed their lives to ensure a temple was erected for Lord Ram. While the demolition of the Babri Masjid tarnished the reputation of Hindus, the world conveniently overlooked the massacre of innocent Hindus perpetrated for the mosque’s construction at the temple site. The story of Ayodhya is etched in blood. Observing the temple, we fervently prayed for the residents of Ayodhya and all the activists who have tirelessly fought for this cause for centuries. Our prayers also extended to the swift construction of a new temple, providing spiritual solace to millions of Hindus in Bharat and worldwide.
It appears Lord Rama heard the countless prayers and desperate pleas of his devotees. Today, the new Ramjanmabhoomi temple stands as a vijayastambha (pillar of victory) for the Hindu revival movement. We believe this is just the beginning of greater things to come.
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