काश्यां हि काश्यते काशी काशी सर्वप्रकाशिका ।
सा काशी विदिता येन तेन प्राप्ता हि काशिका ॥
kāśyāṃ hi kāśyate kāśī kāśī sarvaprakāśikā ।
sā kāśī viditā yena tena prāptā hi kāśikā ॥
(Kashi glows with the light of self-knowledge; she is the one who illumines all things
One who realizes this truth becomes one with Kashi in its truest sense.)
In the heart of India where time folds into itself and the spiritual pulses louder than the mundane there lies a path etched by sages. A route where the earthly and the eternal merge seamlessly. This is the Panchkroshi Yatra, a sacred pilgrimage circuit that encircles the ancient city of Kashi known today as Varanasi, the world’s oldest living city and the spiritual capital of India.
Every year tens of thousands walk this path but to call it a mere religious trek would be incorrect. The Panchkroshi Yatra is more than a pilgrimage, it is a cosmic re-enactment, a soul’s homecoming. Also, it’s a ritual dialogue between time, devotion and geography. It spans 80 kilometers (25 Krosha), covers 108 Shiva temples and follows a five-day arc through myth, penance and transcendence. In earlier times, people would cover all 84 Kroshas, but over the years, it evolved into a cultural “Jatra” — simplified, accompanied by songs, and shared with their families. This journey is not merely about reaching the destination; it is about being reshaped spiritually and scientifically by travelling.
Kashi: A City Carved in Cosmic Geometry
Varanasi has always defied definition. It is not just a city; it is a map of the cosmos inscribed in bricks, beliefs and sacred water. The Panchkroshi Yatra traces an invisible yet powerful ring around the city, a circle of sanctity with Madhyameshwara Mahadev as its nucleus, believed to be the very navel of the universe in Shaivite cosmology.
The route is more symbolic than geographic. It reflects the five faces of Lord Shiva, the five koshas or sheaths of the human soul and the five elemental principles of existence. The Panchkroshi path is where geometry meets mythology and where divinity walks alongside the dust of the earth.
At every bend, there’s a story at every shrine, which is a whisper from the past. This journey is not walked, it is absorbed.
First Halt: From Manikarnika to Kardmeshwar (The Fire of Beginnings)
(Figure 1: Manikarnika Ghat)
The pilgrimage begins at Manikarnika Ghat, where death becomes liberation and endings transform into cosmic beginnings. Pilgrims take a purifying dip in the Ganges, offer their vows (Sankalpa) at the Gyanvapi well, then step into the eternal rhythm barefoot where the earth becomes both witness and guide.
(Figure 2: Kardmeshwar Mahadev Mandir)
The first halt is Kardmeshwar Mahadev. Legend tells that after slaying Ravana, Lord Rama sought absolution and following Sage Vashishta’s counsel, visited Kardameshwar to atone for “Brahmahatya” the sin of killing a Brahmin, it’s one of the oldest Shiva temples founded by Sage Kardam. Besides it lies the mystical Kardam Kunda, a sacred pond believed to hold the sage’s penitent tears. Here pilgrims offer rice grains and prayers, with small gestures of deep karmic meaning thus sowing the seeds of spiritual cleansing.
Second Halt: Bhim Chandi (Where the Goddess Roars)
The second stop leads to Bhim Chandi, a shrine dedicated to a fierce manifestation of Goddess Durga. Also known as Chandikeshwara mandir constructed around the 12th century, the temple is detailed in the Kashi Khanda of the Skanda Purana. It’s believed that Pandava princes and Draupadi themselves worshipped here during their exile in the Dvapara Yuga.
Her image radiates raw energy that stands guard over this land of legends. Beside her temple lies Gandharva Sagar, a pond echoing ancient tales of celestial beings and divine duels. Here the feminine force of the universe takes centre stage. People believe in faithful bow to both strength and serenity, learning that the divine doesn’t always whisper, sometimes it roars.
Third Halt: Rameshwar Mahadev (The Atonement of Kings)
(Figure 3: Source – jagran.com – Rameshwar Mahadev Mandir)
On the third halt pilgrims arrive at Rameshwar Mahadev, a temple sanctified by the footsteps of Lord Rama himself. According to the Skanda Purana, Lord Rama consecrated a sand-formed Shiva linga here to dispel Brahmahatya dosa after Ravana’s death. The river Varuna flows nearby, adding to the serenity and solemnity of the place.
The area hosts a unique fair known as ‘Lota Bhanta fair’, where the humble offerings of potatoes and brinjals (Eggplant) become acts of faith and also seek blessings for their children, embodying Vakya-based faith with no material embellishments. There’s no grandiosity, only sincerity and in that simplicity lies sanctity.
Fourth Halt: Panch Pandav (Echoes of the Epic)
The fourth station Shivpur, is home to five Shiva lingas representing the five Pandavas. These exiled kings of the Mahabharata are believed to have worshipped here seeking atonement. Nearby lies Draupadi Kund, named after queen Draupadi whose legend breathes through the rustling trees.
This stretch of the journey bridges history and myth. It reminds the pilgrim that even the greatest heroes bowed before time and karma, and that redemption is found not in conquests but in surrender.
Fifth Halt: Kapildhara Mahadev (The Final Axis)
The last halt is Kapildhara Mahadev, where Sage Kapil the son of Kardam muni, installed a Shiva linga. It lies on the western fringe of Kashi’s spiritual axis, a 12-kilometer line that defines the metaphysical boundary of the city. Beyond it, the Ganga embraces the eastern frontier, creating a perfect cosmic symmetry.
At this sacred juncture, pilgrims often share that a dip in Kapildhara’s waters feels as purifying as the famed Gaya tirtha symbolizing a spiritual homecoming as the final leg closes toward Manikarnika. A place where silence speaks louder than chants, the pilgrimage doesn’t merely walk, but listen to culture and divinity.
Completing Yatra: Jaun Vinayak and the Return to the Source
(Figure 4: Kashi Vishwanath Mandir)
The culmination of the Yatra isn’t in just reaching the shrine but in a planting life. At Jaun Vinayak, near the ancient Adi Keshav Ghat, pilgrims plant saplings into the river Ganga. This humble act symbolizes sowing one’s soul into the river of the eternal as a final offering for spiritual harvest.
The circle of Panchkroshi then completes itself at Manikarnika, where the vow (Sankalpa) is released. Devotees then offer final prayers at Kashi Vishwanath, Annapurna Devi, and Kaal Bhairav – the guardian deity of Kashi. With each bow, the pilgrim sheds a closer connectivity to the essence of self.
A Journey That Refuses to Fade
(Figure 5: Pilgrims rest under the sacred shade of the Rameshwar Temple during the Panchkroshi Yatra — a divine interlude in their parikrama marked by shraddhā and tapas)
What makes the Panchkroshi Yatra extraordinary is not just its history but its relevance. In a world obsessed with speed, instant gratification and digital connections, this walk reminds us of the profound power of slowness, intention with the physicality of faith.
It is a ritual that resists extinction. While much of contemporary urban life has been bulldozed over ancient paths, the Panchkroshi trail survives not because of preservation but participation. It is a living heritage, breathing through each pilgrim’s footstep and connection to divine energies.
Lesson in the Dust
What does one gain from walking 80 kilometers barefoot, sleeping under open skies and bathing in ancient ponds?
The Internal perspective where One learns that sanctity is not found in skyscrapers but in silence. That devotion is not about reaching a temple, it’s about becoming one. That transformation doesn’t come in thunder, it arrives quietly, on dusty roads in whispered mantras with the shared meals of brinjal and rice.
Completing the Circle
(Figure 6: Source: varanasivideos.com – Map of the sacred Panchkroshi Yatra — a 5-krosha pilgrimage encircling the spiritual heart of Kashi.)
The Panchkroshi Yatra is not for the hurried, the half-hearted or the merely curious. It is for those who wish to unlearn the noise and relearn the pulse of the universe. As one completes the circle one realizes nothing has changed yet everything is different. The shrines remain the same, the roads still stretch through dust and devotion but the pilgrim is no longer who they were. Something has shifted which is eternal. In Panchkroshi path, time doesn’t just pass, it transforms!
Feature Image Credit: istockphoto.com
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